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30.08.19
All You Need to Know About Bezel Settings
“Bezel settings are boring / are too chunky /obstruct my diamond’s sparkle!” Believe us when we say that, when it comes to bezel settings, we’ve heard it all – and most of it, well, it’s dead wrong. And in a world where bezels get blamed for pretty much everything, you may find yourself wondering what’s right and what’s wrong. That’s where we come in. Let’s go over exactly what a bezel setting is, discuss how to find your perfect bezel engagement ring, and why bezel settings are set to become the next big thing in engagement rings.
What Is a Bezel Setting?
A bezel setting is where the central diamond of your engagement ring is surrounded by a metal rim rather than clutched by the four or six prongs you’re used to seeing in a solitaire setting. They are the most misunderstood of the engagement rings and manage to read both old-fashioned and modern.
In fact, you can consider the bezel setting one of the OG-settings for jewelry. Archeologists have found evidence of bezel-set beauties all the way back to the Ancient Egyptian, Byzantine, and Roman cultures. This makes sense when you consider how difficult it must have been to set gemstones without the aid of modern tools. But what worked for the ancients is certainly working for us! Talk about if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Bezel Settings Aren’t (Always) Bulky
If you’re imagining bulky, hand-hammered things with a chunky medieval flair to them, those are the bezels of yesteryear. The style of bezel preferred today is slimmer, streamlined, and adds practicality along with a distinct golden flash when the sun hits it just right. While prong-set solitaires tend to catch on sweaters and sleeves, the bezel’s smooth practicality makes them a better fit for many modern women. So, if you hate sweaters, and you don’t do much with your hands, by all means, go for the prongs. Everyone else, it’s time to consider the bezel.
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Chunky Bezel Settings Are In a League of Their Own
Alright, we’ve established that not all bezel settings are chonky monsters and that the modern bezel is actually quite slim. But that’s not to say that a bezel setting can’t be a behemoth ring. In fact, bezels are basically primed for chunkier settings thanks to their more is more mentality. So if you consider yourself more of a maximalist, don’t fret, there’s most likely a bezel for you too.
There Are Different Types of Bezel Settings
Bezel settings exude a low-key cool that prioritizes functionality over glamour. Yet, they’re also incredibly flattering. They’re like the jeans of engagement rings: always flattering and available in a bunch of styles.
Just remember, while poorly designed bezels may look more like sockets than sculptures, there’s no limit to the beauty of a bezel when it’s been designed and set with skill.
Full Bezel Settings
A full bezel setting is your standard bezel setting. That is, the metal of your ring secures your diamond in place with a thin frame. Because there’s a tad bit more metal used in the process, you can also expect to spend a little more for a full bezel ring. But remember, you really can’t get more secure than a bezel setting so it’s money well spent. Plus, it’s something you’ll love and cherish forever and who can put a price tag on that?
Half Bezel Settings
As one might imagine, a half-bezel is just a full bezel that’s missing half of the setting. This is a more modern take of the traditional setting and is especially suited to styles like the Toi et Moi where prongs and half-bezels can exist side by side. If you prefer the airy and open look of prong settings but don’t want to risk any of your sweaters, this may be the style for you.
Just Like Prongs Bezel Settings Come in Every Style
Of course, the style of your ring setting just doesn’t end at its setting. There’s also design elements to consider as well. You know: three stone, cluster, vintage-inspired and more. And lucky you, just like prong set diamonds, bezel set diamonds are available in any and every style. Consider it a buffet of choice.
Living Large? Bezel Settings Are the Most Secure Setting
Are you worried about your diamond falling out? How about damaging a prong? Does a clumsy streak run in your household? With a bezel set engagement ring, you don’t need to worry so much about the little bumps and jolts of a busy day. The metal frame protects the fragile girdle of your diamond from all sides, leaving you free to worry about other things like Monday morning’s meetings, or where to book reservations for dinner. So go ahead, knock it around a little. That diamond’s not going anywhere.
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Bezel Settings Are the Lowest Setting Available
One of the most common concerns we hear from the future owners of a new diamond ring: “I’m worried the diamond’s going to stick up too much.” While our prong settings are as low profile as they can go, the reality is that they still stick up some. It’s what they’re designed to do. You just can’t be too hard on them. In contrast, our bezel settings ride low and secure on your finger, protected from all sides, and won’t get caught or snagged.
Let’s Dispel Some Bezel Setting Myths
All of this is not to disparage the four-prong solitaire. We’re suckers for classics, and there is no more classic engagement ring than a round brilliant perched and pinched atop a platinum band clutched by four glittering prongs. But, we at Frank Darling do tend to favor practicality. A gorgeous bezel setting embodies the rare combination of practicality and desire that can make a grown woman swoon.
If you’re curious about the bezel setting, but, you’re not quite sure why, or how to distinguish a good bezel from a bad one, you’ve come to the right place. The last thing anyone wants to do is get excited about a setting only to find that it makes your diamond look dull, dark, or downright medieval. Let’s dig in.
Myth: A Bezel Set Diamond Will Sparkle Less
If your diamond is cut to sparkle and is set properly within its bezel setting, it will sparkle all the same as if it was prong set. Pretty much 100% of your diamonds sparkle is a result of light entering the top of your diamond, bouncing between its facets, and coming back out. So unless your diamond is poorly cut or features a thick bezel that covers part of its table, you can expect to sparkle all the same.
Myth: Bezel Set Diamonds Appear Smaller Then They Are
This is a big fat, no, ya’ll. In fact, it’s the opposite. Rarely discussed, but, definitely a perk of the bezel — it makes your diamond look bigger. More than a little bit. The bezel metal adds about half a millimeter to the diameter of your diamond. That makes a 1 carat diamond look more like a 1.25 carat. It’s a subtle boost to its visual presence that you won’t be upset about.
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Myth: Bezel Settings Are Bulky
We’ve been over this guys, this one is a big fat, myth. In fact, unless you’re on the search for a bulky, chunky engagement ring, the bezel setting is some of the sleekest in the game.
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Should You Shop Bezel Settings?
Should you shop bezel settings? Only if you want a no-fuss, low-maintenance setting that will make your diamond look bigger. For everyone else, we have a selection of gorgeous prong-set engagement rings that are sure to turn heads.
Have a specific bezel dream you’re looking to fulfill? We can help! Drop us a line at hello@frankdarling.com today to get started. Or, visit us in person or online at any of our showrooms and schedule a free consultation with a bespoke ring designer for a curated flight of IRL diamonds you can try on in store today. Have a specific bezel diamond ring in mind? Take the quiz and request a free sketch to get started.
FAQs
What is a Bezel Setting?
A bezel setting is a type of jewelry setting that features a thin lip of metal that covers the very edge of your diamond or gemstone. This secures the stone while protecting it against any bumps or scrapes.
How Are Bezel Settings Made?
Bezel settings are made by gently hammering the metal rim of the bezel, gently flattening it down and over the edge of the diamond. This craft requires skill. A wobbly, distorted shape is a hallmark of a heavy handed setter. The bezel’s shape should be crisp, and almost entirely free of all but the gentlest wobble from the hammer.
What is a Half Bezel Setting?
A full bezel wraps entirely around the diamond’s girdle, or waist, creating a continuous rim of metal. A half bezel will only wrap some of the diamond’s girdle, leaving it exposed in some areas. A partial bezel is also very secure, and offers many of the same benefits of a full bezel, but, has a different look. You’ll love it or hate it.
Do Bezel Set Diamonds Sparkle?
Yes, and no. An excellent or ideal cut stone set into a well-designed bezel will stun even the most hardened of hearts. A poorly cut stone, framed in a chunky rim of metal that eclipses the top surface of the stone, can look dull or dim. Choose your stone, and bezel, wisely.
Stephanie is a jewelry lover, gemologist, and seasoned copywriter with a decade of experience in e-commerce and tech. A RISD graduate, Stephanie also studied at GIA and has worked in the jewelry industry for 20 years. When not writing about diamonds and jewelry, Stephanie is also a photographer and backyard flower farmer. She lives in Tacoma, WA with her two black cats.